Construction of beds
for hardy Cactus,
and how to grow and propagate them.
Construction of
beds to hardy succulents:
Growing Hardy succulents
and other drought resistant plants from seeds:
Fertilizer:
Diseases in hardy
succulents:
A few good plants
for beginners:
Propagation of hardy cactus and other
hardy succulents.
In a Cactusbed made mentioned above the roots
of many plants will go down to underlying strata in search of minerals.
Rainwater and dust from the
atmosphere will also carry small amounts of minerals to the bed, most
importantly nitrogen (as nitrate), which may be sufficient for the most
Cactus and other slow growing plants.
I do however fertilize my cactus, as this make the plants more healthy, hardy and bloom more.
I make my own fertilizer, it's made of this:
1 liter solid potassium phosphate 0-22-28
1 liter liquid fertilizer with trace minerals.
I use the brand "Hornum gødning"
8 liter water.
Put 1 liter potassium phosphate in a 10 liter can and add 4-5 liter warm water (NOT HOT WATER!!!!), when it's dissolved (needs a lot of shaking!!!), I add 1 liter liquid fertilizer and finally I fill the can with cold water.
The above fertilizer is used in this strength:
1 dl. to 10 liter water which is enough for 10 square meters.
I fertilize every two weeks from May 15th to August 15th, and always in the morning before the sun hit the plants (or on a rainy day). Remember! to rinse away the fertilizer on the plants, or they might get burned spots on the leaves, by the remaining fertilizer salts!!!! I just give the plants a quick shower with tap water.
There can occur rust fungus, specially after a wet warm winter, If the damage is done there are noting to do, but the rust fungus rarely spread to the new growth, so next year you can make new cuttings and start it over again. The rust fungus can be prevented if the bed with the plants are protected against winter moisture from May 1th to October 1th., or with a sheet of glass above each plant.
In the spring is is important to watch out for pads that are beginning to rot, while it can very fast spread to the whole plant. All the infected pads has to be cut of with a sharp knife, until there are no more "orange" to see in the cut. But even with only a little piece left of the Opuntia pad it will grow to a new plant (hardy Opuntias are tuff plants)
Snails and slugs can be a little hard on the new growth, and they can be killed with poison or with the beer method!
I have never had other diseased in my hardy
succulents.
A
dozen of good plants for beginners:
The number is my "catalogue number" and the letter shows if it's a clone of the same plant. All of the below plants are hardy in an unprotected bed:
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Photos by Benny Moeller Jensen © 1999 29. Opuntia
' Smithwick '
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Photo by Benny Moeller Jensen © 1999 35.
Opuntia
' Budapest '
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Photo by Lary J. Junge, Colorado ©. 40.
Opuntia
' Hybrid '
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Photo by Benny Moeller Jensen © 1999 173.
Opuntia
cymochila
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Photo by Benny Moeller Jensen © 1999 61A.
Opuntia
fragilis
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Photo
here soon!
227.
Opuntia fragilis var. brooksii
n.n.
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Photo
here soon!
680.
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Photo by Benny Moeller Jensen © 1999 674
Opuntia humifusa
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Photo
here soon!
242.
Opuntia tortispina
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Photo by Benny Moeller Jensen © 1999 11.
Opuntia
polyacantha ' Carmin '
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Photo by Benny Moeller Jensen © 1999 117.
Opuntia
polyacantha
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Photo by Benny Moeller Jensen © 2000 49.
Yucca flaccida
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There are many other good plants
that I could mention, you can take a look at
my
plant list to see which species I grow this far north in Denmark. Or
you could visit my Photo gallery.
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Benny Møller Jensen
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